CALIFORNIA COAST TRAILS
CONTENTS


CHAPTER I

Leaving El Monte — Objects of the ride — Our horses and equipment — El Monte — The first Mission San Gabriel — Friendly Mexicans — A ranch-house of Old California — Downey — A farmer of California's best type — Sleepy Hollows — Camp on the San Joaquin — Coyotes and sulphureous coffee — Laguna Cañon — Warfare of sun and fog — The coast: Laguna Beach

CHAPTER II

Aliso Cañon — The eucalyptus — Bird voices at morning — A painter's coast — Our camp at Aliso cañon — Coast feaures and resemblances — A typical Southern California cañon — The artist's point of view — A hermit's cave — California land-grants: their names — Dana's cliff at San Juan — The town of San Juan Capistrano: its old-time air: its ruined Mission — Relics of Mission days

CHAPTER III

San Juan Hot Springs — San Mateo — A princely ranch: the Santa Margarita — Vicissitudes of Western towns: Fallbrook — Palomar Mountain — The village of Pala — The wronged Indians of Agua Caliente — The Mission of San Antonio at Pala — American hospitality at the old Monserate ranch-house — Echoes of the past: Don Tomas Alvarado — Wild-cats — The San Luis Rey Valley — Wayside interludes — The Guajome; its deterioration — The Mission of San Luis Rey, as "restored" — Oceanside — Companionship and moods of the sea — Night at La Costa

CHAPTER IV

Boom towns — Del Mar: the Torrey pine — The old Alvarado ranch-house: an incident of "the eternal feminine" — The decay of the historic Spanish-California houses — Las Peñiasquitas Valley and ranch-house — The Linda Vista Mesa: prospects of a kangaroo ranch — Mission Valley — The Mission of San Diego — Old Town — San Diego, our southern terminus: bay and water-front — The highlands of Mexico in sight

CHAPTER V

Northward bound — San Fernando: its Mission — The San Fernando Valley — Topanga cañon — Wild flowers — A wayside Thomas — The coast — Dana's opinion of San Pedro — North-Westward Ho! — The Malibu: "No Trespassing" — Shoreside sheep — I am an object of compassion — The pro and con of solitude — Camp by the ocean edge

CHAPTER VI

An inland trail — Strange country: downs and combes — Boney Mountain — Friendly Mexicans again — Sycamore cañon — Sunday in camp — A night disturbance — Oak-glades — The Santa Barbara Channel Islands in view — The resting-place of Cabrillo — Hueneme: a moribund town — Oxnard, " the hated rival" — An embarrassing companion — Ventura: its Mission — San Buenaventura: nasturtiums and simplicity

CHAPTER VII

Fording the Ventura River — Tramps in clover — Hospitality unfailing — Carpinteria — Origins of Spanish place-names — A huge grape-vine — Summerland: oil wells in tide-water — Montecito and millionaires — Santa Barbara: as Dana saw it: and to-day — The Mission — A link with the past — The de la Guerra mansion — Santa Barbara of the far future

CHAPTER VIII

Arboreal strangers — A squally evening — Roadside camp and company — An incongruity: church as barn — The village of Naples — The Refugio Pass — More pleasant Mexicans: Bernardito the Jolly — Crossing the Santa Ynez Mountains — A wonderful landscape — Wild flowers, and the madroño — Las Lomas de la Purificacion — A land of great oaks — Fording the Santa Ynez River

CHAPTER IX

Mission Santa Ines — Mission hospitality — Quaint relics — An operatic departure — The Gaviota Pass — Magnificent oaks and sycamores — The Nojogui waterfall — Sea-fogs — A travelling emporium — Las Cruces — An adventure with quicksand — Voices of the sea — Evicted by the tide — Sea-birds, and a rattlesnake — A sunset island

CHAPTER X

A bad road — A Marblehead skipper: bygone whaling — Portuguese fishermen — Point Conception: night at the lighthouse — A natural division point — The Jalama: fine old olives — Camp on the Espada: tramp company again — A Point Conception wind — An inexplicable family — The town of Lompoc: Chinese freemasons: Don Camilo, a Spanish-Californian — The Mission of La Purísima Concepción

CHAPTER XI

Pine cañon — The Burton Mesa — Camp on the San Antonio — The Sierra Santa Lucia in view — Casmalia and the Todos Santos — A fine seascape — Point Sal: friendly entertainers — A Spanish Petruchio — Fog and rough trail — Guadalupe — Humors of fence advertising — The Valley and town of Santa Maria — Southern California left behind — "Hunting a location" — The Nipomo Valley: the Dana family — Arroyo Grande Valley — San Luis Obispo Bay — An Indian burying-place — A Portuguese legend — The Avilas of Avila: more Spanish-Californian hospitality: Shakespeare and the drama of California

CHAPTER XII

Into the mountains — The knob-cone pine — A lost trail — Camp on Diablo Creek — Rough going — A debate with Chino — French hospitality, and Irish — The city of San Luis Obispo: the Mission: preposterous chimes: lynchings — Volcanic peaks — A gray day — Italian-Swiss settlers — Blithe cowboys — Morro — Entering the Coast Range country — Cayucos — The town of Cambria — Abalone fishers — San Simeon — Piedras Blancas lighthouse — Welsh kindness — Indian relics — A primitive school — Irish hospitality again

CHAPTER XIII

San Carpóforo cañon — Oddities of pronunciation — More kind Mexicans — A mountain home — The Pear Orchard — A resting spell — The Santa Lucia fir — Duality of climate — Physical and pictorial aspects of the region — A hot climb — Crossing the crest — More great oaks — Camp on the Nacimiento River — A delightful swim — Sunday in camp — The trail lost — Intelligence of Chino — The San Antonio River — The village of Jolon: Indian music: my classification

CHAPTER XIV

Farewell, Chino; enter Anton — Camp at the Mission of San Antonio de Padua: crows, ants, swallows, and coyotes — Spanish hospitality and family affection — Dog versus skunk — Digger-pines — Recrossing the crest — Santa Lucia Peak — Los Burros mining settlement — A voluble box-lid — Delightful trail — Entering the redwoods — The coast again — Bold scenery — Pacific Valley: a lonely ranch: "Striking it rich" — The weekly mail

CHAPTER XV

Camp at Mill Creek — "Tools and the Man" — A serpentine trail — Lucia, a postal frontier — A lost school-house — The tan-bark oak — A Coast Range sunset — Gamboa's Ranch: a rare situation — Sudden changes of scenery — The trail lost again: rough scrambling — Little's Springs: a bath in mid-air — Unseen choristers — Two hundred feet of magazines — Camp among the redwoods — Superb trees — Castro's Ranch

CHAPTER XVI

From trail to road — The Big Sur River — cañon of the Little Sur — Point Sur lighthouse — A Robinson Crusoe and a great discovery in mineralogy — Portuguese friendliness once more — The perfection of coast scenery — Point Lobos — Cypresses and pines — The Mission of San Carlos, Carmel: beauty of its situation: the resting-place of Serra — Carmel-by-the-Sea — More delightful coast — Wonderful cypresses — Monterey, the old capital of California: as Dana saw it: historic objects: the Stevenson house: whaling days: the old church

CHAPTER XVII

A change of scenery — The Salinas River — Castroville — Moss Landing — Trees: and whitewash — A jocund cavalier — Watsonville, metropolis of apples — Aptos: why Aptos? — The city of Santa Cruz — Another inland divergence — Ox-teams — The Santa Cruz redwoods, "dedicated" to triviality — Ben Lomond: a catechism — The California Redwood Park: redwoods compared with the Big Trees — A forest trail — Again at the coast — Pigeon Point — Pescadero: a bibulous banker

CHAPTER XVIII

Dust and wild flowers — Half Moon Bay - "Gilt-edged" real-estate — The Montara Mountain coast — First view of San Francisco Bay — Colma: an Italian lodging-house — San Francisco: as in 1906, and now: Bohemia: Stevenson: the Mission Dolores — Ferry to Sausalito — Mill Valley — Mount Tamalpais; a famous view — The Muir Woods: more splendid redwoods — Willow Camp — First rain — Bolinas Lagoon — Lonely country and a lonely ranch — A pleasant meeting — Drake's Bay: the Golden Hind; the first Protestant service on Pacific shores: Drake's monument, and "Drake's Drum"

CHAPTER XIX

Tomales Bay — Wind, dust, oysters, and chickens — Drab and blue — Camp and coyote concert — Russian River — Fine scenic country, and a sunset — Old Fort Ross: an excerpt from history — A new pine — Camp among weird surroundings — A gale and a fine sea — Stewarts Point, a lumbering settlement — A place of gloom, Gualala

CHAPTER XX

Big Bert — Odd names — The lowland fir — Wild flowers — Point Arena: the lot of lumber towns — The Alder Creek dispute — Greenwood — Gray weather — Autumn colors — Navarro, a deserted village — A confidence concerning Albion — Little River: blessings on that little girl! — Mendocino City — Fort Bragg — Rain again — Scotch hospitality — A fine surf — Sunday at Hardy Creek

CHAPTER XXI

Forest and foxgloves — Usal — A warm climb — Kenny's: a free-and-easy reception — The autumn woods — Entering Humboldt County — Dry climactic belts — The King's Peak Range — The Mattole Valley — Yews — The village of Petrolia: reminders of earthquake — Cape Mendocino, a salient point: its lighthouse — A sunset — Capetown — The Bear River Range — Cedars — Gentle teamsters — The Sitka spruce — Ferndale — Eel River: an official "hold-up" — Humboldt Bay — Eureka, the capital of northern California: its prospects and history

CHAPTER XXII

Arcata — Furze and daisies — Mad River — Stump land — Trinidad Bay, headland, and lighthouse — Lagoons — Norwegian and Indian — The coast hemlock — The village of Orick — Fine game country — Splendid forest — Fog among the redwoods: a weird scene — A strange couple: sentiment yields to fact — Crossing the Klamath River — Requa: the Klamath Indians — The forest again — Crescent City: saloons and a prospective harbor — Doubtful sailing dates — Smith River Corners — The Oregon coast in view — The goal is reached: congratulations — Good-bye to Anton, — and to Oregon